{"id":31169,"date":"2025-05-17T01:36:12","date_gmt":"2025-05-17T01:36:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/?p=31169"},"modified":"2025-05-17T01:36:12","modified_gmt":"2025-05-17T01:36:12","slug":"dunyanin-en-yuksek-zirveleri-yeni-tirmanis-sezonuna-hazirlaniyor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/?p=31169","title":{"rendered":"D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek zirveleri yeni t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f sezonuna haz\u0131rlan\u0131yor"},"content":{"rendered":"
D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek tepelerinin yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 Himalayalar ve Karakurum Da\u011flar\u0131’nda bahar t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f d\u00f6neminin haz\u0131rl\u0131klar\u0131na ba\u015fland\u0131.<\/p>\n

Asya’n\u0131n derinliklerinde, 8 bin metrenin \u00fczerindeki 14 tepenin bulundu\u011fu, y\u00fcksek irtifa da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n mabedi olan b\u00f6lge, nisan ve may\u0131s aylar\u0131nda \u015fiddetli tepe t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131na tan\u0131kl\u0131k edecek.<\/p>\n

Explorer’s Web’in haberine nazaran, y\u00fcksek irtifa t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcnmez kahramanlar\u0131 Himalayalar’\u0131n yerlisi \u015ferpalar, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en tehlikeli da\u011flar\u0131ndan Annapurna’da t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f rotalar\u0131n\u0131 haz\u0131rlamaya koyuldu.<\/p>\n

Sabit ip s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 2. ileri kampa kadar d\u00f6\u015femeyi tamamlayan \u015ferpa grubu, buz bacalar\u0131 ve yar\u0131klar\u0131yla dolu dik bir yamac\u0131n katedilece\u011fi 3. ileri kamp yolunun haz\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla me\u015fgul.<\/p>\n

D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek doru\u011fu Everest’te de bir \u015ferpa grubu, t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131n en tehlikeli k\u0131sm\u0131 olan Kumbu Buzulu \u00fczerinde rota a\u00e7mak \u00fczere yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Onlar\u0131n her bahar ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131nda \u00fcstlendi\u011fi bu riskli vazife, d\u00f6nem i\u00e7inde yap\u0131lacak t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131 daha inan\u00e7l\u0131 hale getirecek.<\/p>\n

AA muhabiri, bahar t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f d\u00f6nemi \u00f6ncesinde da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n en \u015fiddetli meydan okumas\u0131 olarak g\u00f6r\u00fclen 8 bin metrenin \u00fczerindeki 14 tepe ve t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flarla ilgili bilgileri derledi.<\/p>\n

– Da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc meydan okumas\u0131: 14 zirve<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00fcnyada deniz d\u00fczeyinden 8 bin metre y\u00fcksekte 14 tepe bulunuyor. Bunlar, \u00c7in ile Nepal ortas\u0131ndaki Himalayalar ve \u00c7in ile Pakistan ortas\u0131ndaki Karakurum Da\u011flar\u0131 \u00fczerinde yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek tepesi Everest’in (8 bin 848 metre) yan\u0131 s\u0131ra K2 (8 bin 611 metre), Kangchenjunga (8 bin 586 metre), Lhotse (8 bin 516 metre), Makalu (8 bin 485 metre), Cho Oyu (8 bin 188 metre), Dhaulagiri (8 bin 167 metre), Manaslu (8 bin 163 metre), Nanga Parbat (8 bin 126 metre), Annapurna (8 bin 91 metre), Gasherbrum 1 (8 bin 80 metre), Broad Peak (8 bin 51 metre), Gasherbrum 2 (8 bin 35 metre) ve Shishapangma (8 bin 27 metre) doruklar\u0131, “8 binlikler” olarak da isimlendiriliyor.<\/p>\n

Da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n en \u015fiddetli meydan okumas\u0131 kabul edilen doruklar\u0131n hepsine t\u0131rmanabilen az say\u0131da y\u00fcksek irtifa da\u011fc\u0131s\u0131 bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Milletleraras\u0131 Da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k ve T\u0131rman\u0131\u015f Federasyonunun (UIAA) belirledi\u011fi kritere nazaran bir doru\u011fun 8 binlikler ortas\u0131nda say\u0131labilmesi i\u00e7in tepe noktas\u0131n\u0131n m\u00fccavir tepelerden ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z, farkl\u0131 bir pozisyonda olmas\u0131 da gerekiyor. Y\u00fcksek bir doru\u011fa biti\u015fik uydu tepeler, 8 bin metreden y\u00fcksekte olsa da 8 binlik say\u0131lm\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

8 binlik doruklardan 5’i, Nanga Parbat, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum 1 ve Gasherbrum 2; Pakistan’dan \u00c7in’in Uygur \u00d6zerk B\u00f6lgesi’ne yanl\u0131\u015fs\u0131z uzanan Karakurum Da\u011flar\u0131 \u00fczerinde yer al\u0131yor. Bunlardan sadece Nanga Parbat, b\u00fcsb\u00fct\u00fcn Pakistan hudutlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde kal\u0131rken ba\u015fka 4 tepe, iki \u00fclke hududunda konumlan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

14 tepeden 9’u ise Nepal’den \u00c7in’in Tibet \u00d6zerk B\u00f6lgesi’ne uzanan Himalayalar \u00fczerinde bulunuyor. Bunlardan Dhaulagiri, Annapurna ve Manaslu doruklar\u0131 Nepal, Shishapangma ise \u00c7in sonlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde kal\u0131yor. Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse ve Makalu Nepal-\u00c7in, Kangchenjunga ise Nepal-Hindistan hududunda yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

– “\u00d6l\u00fcm b\u00f6lgesi”<\/strong><\/p>\n

8 binlik doruklar, da\u011fc\u0131lar a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan hem fizik\u00ee hem de teknik a\u00e7\u0131dan \u00e7ok say\u0131da zorlu\u011fu bir ortada bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Deniz d\u00fczeyinden y\u00fckseklere \u00e7\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131k\u00e7a havadaki oksijen \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcs\u00fc de\u011fi\u015fmese de hava yo\u011funlu\u011fu ve bas\u0131n\u00e7 azald\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan insan bedeninin kullanabilece\u011fi oksijen oran\u0131 azal\u0131yor. Atmosferdeki aktif oksijen oran\u0131 deniz d\u00fczeyinde y\u00fczde 20,9 iken Everest’in tepesinde bu oran y\u00fczde 6,9’a kadar d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

K\u0131smi bas\u0131nc\u0131n bedenin oksijen al\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 zora sokacak kadar d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ve insan hayat\u0131n\u0131 uzun vadeli s\u00fcrd\u00fcremeyece\u011fi d\u00fczeye ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00fcksek irtifa d\u00fczeyi “\u00f6l\u00fcm b\u00f6lgesi” olarak isimlendiriliyor.<\/p>\n

Hayat\u0131n uzun periyotlu s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fclebilece\u011fi en y\u00fcksek irtifan\u0131n, 5 bin 500 metre oldu\u011fu kabul edilirken 8 bin metre, oksijen takviyesi olmadan k\u0131sa m\u00fcddetli bulunman\u0131n dahi tehlikeli oldu\u011fu irtifa e\u015fi\u011fi \u00f6zelli\u011fini ta\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

8 bin metrelik doru\u011fa t\u0131rmanan da\u011fc\u0131, oksijen deste\u011fi alm\u0131yorsa t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131n bu kritik kademesinde bedeninin teneff\u00fcs edebildi\u011finden daha fazlas\u0131na gereksinim duydu\u011fu her ad\u0131mda oksijen yetmezli\u011fi tesiriyle giderek vefata yakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 ortamda hareket etmek zorunda kal\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Y\u00fcksek irtifa da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131ndaki can kay\u0131plar\u0131n\u0131n birden fazla mevt b\u00f6lgesinde ya\u015famsal fonksiyonlar\u0131n kayb\u0131ndan yahut berbatla\u015fan s\u0131hhat \u015fartlar\u0131n\u0131n sebep oldu\u011fu zafiyet ve yanl\u0131\u015f kararlardan kaynaklan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

– “\u015eerpalar”<\/strong><\/p>\n

Gerek irtifa ve hava kurallar\u0131 gerekse da\u011fl\u0131k b\u00f6lgenin yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 teknik zorluklar nedeniyle y\u00fcksek irtifa da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131, ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 tertip gerektiriyor.<\/p>\n

Y\u00fcksek irtifa da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131, “ekspedisyon da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131” ismi verilen, ana kamptan ileri kamplara yanl\u0131\u015fs\u0131z ad\u0131m ad\u0131m hareket edilen tertip i\u00e7inde y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fck tak\u0131mlar halinde hareket eden da\u011fc\u0131lar, y\u00fcksek irtifaya \u00f6zel k\u0131yafetler, ara\u00e7, gere\u00e7, donan\u0131m ve materyalleri kullan\u0131yor. Faaliyetin her basama\u011f\u0131, \u00f6zel teknik maharetlere ve yordam bilgisine sahip olmay\u0131 gerektiriyor.<\/p>\n

Da\u011fc\u0131 gruplar\u0131, birden fazla vakit y\u00f6re halk\u0131ndan kimselerin rehberli\u011fine ve yard\u0131m\u0131na gereksinim duyuyor. Asya’n\u0131n bu yal\u00e7\u0131n da\u011flar\u0131ndaki g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc tepe seyahatlerinde da\u011fc\u0131lara yerli da\u011f rehberleri “\u015ferpalar” e\u015flik ediyor.<\/p>\n

Nepal ile Tibet ortas\u0131ndaki b\u00f6lgede ya\u015fayan Himalaya yerlileri “\u015ferpalar”, da\u011fl\u0131k co\u011frafyay\u0131 uygun tan\u0131d\u0131klar\u0131 ve g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc \u015fartlara al\u0131\u015f\u0131k olduklar\u0131 i\u00e7in yabanc\u0131 da\u011fc\u0131lara rehberlik ediyor, y\u00fcklerini ta\u015f\u0131yor, kamplar\u0131n\u0131 kuruyor ve t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f rotalar\u0131n\u0131 haz\u0131rl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Bat\u0131 lisanlar\u0131nda “yol g\u00f6sterici” ve “rehber” manalar\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan “\u015ferpa” s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, ilham\u0131n\u0131 Nepalli bu da\u011f rehberlerinden al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

– Birinci t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar<\/strong><\/p>\n

8 binin \u00fczerindeki 14 doru\u011fa birinci t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar, 1950 ile 1964 y\u0131llar\u0131, birinci k\u0131\u015f t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131 ise 1980 ile 2021 y\u0131llar\u0131 ortas\u0131nda yap\u0131ld\u0131.<\/p>\n

1950 y\u0131l\u0131nda Nepal’deki Annapurna Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n doru\u011funa ula\u015fan Frans\u0131z da\u011fc\u0131lar Maurice Herzog ve Louis Lachenal, 14 doruktan birine birinci ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131 ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirdi.<\/p>\n

D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek tepesi Everest’e birinci defa 1953 y\u0131l\u0131nda Yeni Zelandal\u0131 da\u011fc\u0131 Edmund Hillary ile Nepalli da\u011f rehberi Tenzing Norgay \u00e7\u0131kmay\u0131 ba\u015fard\u0131.<\/p>\n

1964’de \u00c7inli da\u011fc\u0131 \u015eu Cing’in \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fck etti\u011fi grup Tibet’teki Shishapangma Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n doru\u011funa ula\u015farak 8 binliklerin birinci t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 tamamlad\u0131.<\/p>\n

14 doru\u011fa birinci k\u0131\u015f t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131 1980 y\u0131l\u0131nda Polonyal\u0131 da\u011fc\u0131lar Andrzej Zawada, Leszek Cichy ve Krzysztof Wielicki taraf\u0131ndan Everest’e yap\u0131ld\u0131.<\/p>\n

Birinci k\u0131\u015f t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n sonuncusunda ise Nepalli da\u011fc\u0131lar Nirmal Purja ve Mingma Gyalje \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcndeki 10 ki\u015filik grup, 2021’de K2 Da\u011f\u0131’na t\u0131rmand\u0131.<\/p>\n

– T\u00fcrk da\u011fc\u0131, 14 tepeyi tamamlayanlar aras\u0131nda<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130talyan da\u011fc\u0131 Reinhold Messner, 1986’da 14 doru\u011fa oksijen dayana\u011f\u0131 olmadan t\u0131rmanarak bunu ba\u015farabilen birinci ki\u015fi oldu.<\/p>\n

2010’da \u0130spanya’n\u0131n Bask b\u00f6lgesinden bayan da\u011fc\u0131 Edurne Pasaban, 14 tepeyi tamamlayan birinci bayan olurken oksijen dayana\u011f\u0131 kulland\u0131. 2011’de Avusturyal\u0131 bayan da\u011fc\u0131 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, oksijen dayana\u011f\u0131 olmadan bunu ba\u015fard\u0131.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrk da\u011fc\u0131 Tun\u00e7 F\u0131nd\u0131k da 2023’te tepe t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 tamamlayarak 14 doru\u011fun t\u00fcm\u00fcne t\u0131rmanabilen sportmenler ortas\u0131na ismini yazd\u0131rd\u0131.<\/p>\n

8 binlik tepe t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flar\u0131na 2021’de Everest ile ba\u015flayan F\u0131nd\u0131k, 2023 y\u0131l\u0131nda Nanga Parbat ile tamamlad\u0131.<\/p>\n

F\u0131nd\u0131k, 2013 y\u0131l\u0131nda Nanga Parbat’a d\u00fczenlenen ter\u00f6r sald\u0131r\u0131s\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda orada t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f yap\u0131yordu. Da\u011f\u0131n ana kamp\u0131na bask\u0131n d\u00fczenleyen a\u015f\u0131r\u0131l\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 ter\u00f6ristler, 10 da\u011fc\u0131 ve bir rehberi \u00f6ld\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. Olay s\u0131ras\u0131nda 2. ileri kampta bulunan F\u0131nd\u0131k, bu sayede ataktan kurtulmu\u015ftu.<\/p>\n

– Vefat oranlar\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

8 binlikler, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en tehlikeli da\u011flar\u0131 olarak biliniyor. Sarp kaya duvarlar\u0131n\u0131n, derin buz yar\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n ve \u00e7\u0131\u011f tehlikesinin kol gezdi\u011fi karl\u0131 yama\u00e7lar\u0131n katedildi\u011fi t\u0131rman\u0131\u015flarda \u00e7ok say\u0131da da\u011fc\u0131 hayat\u0131n\u0131 kaybediyor.<\/p>\n

Alman da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k istatistik\u00e7isi Eberhard Jurgalski’nin derledi\u011fi 1950-2012 y\u0131llar\u0131n\u0131 kapsayan datalara nazaran, 14 tepe i\u00e7inde Annapurna, y\u00fczde 31,9’luk vefat oran\u0131yla en tehlikelisi pozisyonda bulunuyor. \u015eimdiye dek bu tepeye t\u0131rmanmaya te\u015febb\u00fcs eden neredeyse her 3 da\u011fc\u0131dan biri hayat\u0131n\u0131 kaybetti.<\/p>\n

Mevt oran\u0131 bak\u0131m\u0131ndan Annapurna’y\u0131, y\u00fczde 20,4 ile Nanga Parbat, y\u00fczde 16 ile Kangchenjunga, y\u00fczde 15,4 ile Dhaulagiri ve y\u00fczde 14,1 ile K2 izliyor.<\/p>\n

En \u00e7ok t\u0131rman\u0131lan Everest’te ise vefat oran\u0131 y\u00fczde 3,9 d\u00fczeyindeyken Cho Oyu, y\u00fczde 1,4 ile en d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck vefat oran\u0131na sahip bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Bilgiler, da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k tekniklerinde, teknik haz\u0131rl\u0131klarda ve tertipteki ilerlemelere paralel olarak vefat oranlar\u0131n\u0131n, son 20 y\u0131lda evvelki 50 y\u0131la k\u0131yasla azald\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ortaya koyuyor.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Asya’n\u0131n derinliklerinde, Himalayalar ve Karakurum Da\u011flar\u0131 \u00fczerinde yer alan 8 bin metrenin \u00fczerindeki 14 tepe, da\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc meydan okumas\u0131 kabul ediliyor.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":31170,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27],"tags":[2570,1897,197,1991,988],"class_list":["post-31169","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-guncel-haberler","tag-8-bin","tag-dagci","tag-metre","tag-tirmanis","tag-zirve"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31169","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=31169"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31169\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":31171,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31169\/revisions\/31171"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/31170"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=31169"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=31169"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/haberbesiktas.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=31169"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}